By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR
Rosé has been around for a long time, but for American consumers its beginnings were difficult. For centuries, the French produced luscious dry rosés in the south of France, while American consumers cut their teeth (smeared their teeth) with a caramel mixture. who abused the so-called rosé. Even if many of those French
The producers only make rosé, their product was not as affordable as Sutter Home’s notorious and prolific white zinfandel. It took years to undo the damage caused by those candy concoctions, and once that was done, dry rosé sales took off. And when they did, producers here and added rosé to their vast portfolios just to stay in the game.
Sales accelerated the COVID pandemic as the word “all-day pink” took on new life with other people stuck at home. Today, however, it appears that rosé sales – like all wine sales – have declined. It’s not that consumers are bored of rosé, it’s just that drinking large amounts of this fun drink doesn’t have the same appeal for other people.
For us, a glass of rosé is a warm weather favorite. The color creates a fun tone for a party, and its bright acidity and freshness offset the effects of hot afternoons on the boat, deck or beach. Furthermore, there are few wines as flexible as rosé on the table. Because the dish becomes lighter in the summer, you can accompany it with a plate of white vegetables, cheese, grilled chicken, at most seafood dishes and sauces.
If you’re looking for something special from France, check out the Forever Young Cotes de Provence Rosé 2023 ($26). If the call doesn’t get you, the flavors will. This tasty wine, packaged in perhaps the spiciest rosé bottle on the market, is inspired by Cinsault. Grenache and Syrah are added to the blend to give the wine layers of bright red finish and citrus, followed by a hint of minerality. Refreshing and lively mouthfeel.
France has been producing rosé for a long time, but Spain has been producing rosé with Tempranillo, Grenache, Mazuelo and Graciano grapes for a long time. Italian manufacturers depend on Aglianico, Montepulciano, Negromara and Sangiovese.
A few weeks ago we focused exclusively on rosés from the south of France. This week we are in California and other regions.
Most California makers stick to the French in grenache, syrah, mourvèdre and cinsault, but we’ve tried plenty of rosés made with Pinot Noir and even Cabernet Sauvignon.
Although the grapes vary, the winemaking procedure is more or less the same. The grapes are pressed temporarily and briefly to decrease the contact between the juice and the skin, which helps to obtain a transparent color, crisp acidity, and completely new flavors. The wines are usually simple, but producers like Tavel’s add complexity by letting the grapes soak bloodless for at least 12 hours.
There is a certain similarity with rosé because the terroir does not play as much of a role as, for example, in the production of Cabernet Sauvignon. The concept is to keep the wine simple, affordable and fun to taste.
As the temperatures rise, a parade of tasty rosés to cool you down:
Three Sticks Castenada Sonoma Coast Rosé 2023 ($45). This could possibly be the most productive rosé we’ve tasted in the United States this year. The beautiful watermelon color lays the foundation for a deliciously new and fruity drink. The name of the producer’s tasting room, one of the few apartments from the Mexican era. in downtown Sonoma, the rosé comes in a whiskey-like bottle that resembles heirlooms found on the property. Strawberry compote, hand and citrus notes give a fully fragrant rosé made from the Rhône grape varieties.
2022 California Pink Lure ($20). This blend of Syrah, Cariñena, Vermentino and Grenache creates a blend of new summer fruit with a hint of lemon.
Pink Avaline ($24). Founded by Cameron Diaz and Katherine Power, this vegan wine is made with grapes from the south of France. Among the blend are Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Caladoc. It is undeniable and smooth with notes of melon and citrus.
CVNE Cune Rosé 2022 ($15). Made entirely from Tempranillo grapes, this ripe Spanish rosé is juicy strawberry flavour with a hint of orange and a hint of sweetness.
Hogwash California Rosé 2023 ($18). The effusive aromas of grapefruit are followed by flavors of orange and stone fruit.
Frank Family Leslie Pinot Noir Rosé 2023 ($50). Nothing about this venerable manufacturer is normal. Even this rosé turns out to have more framework and complexity than the average rosé wine. Lots of red culmination with a hint of citrus and balanced acidity. Very delicious.
2022 Dutcher Crossing Rosé de Grenache Winemakers’ Cellar ($39). Hailing from the Dry Creek Valley, this sumptuous rosé features aromas of peach and apricot followed by cherry and citrus flavors.
Presqu’ile Santa Maria Valley Rosé 2023 ($32). Made from the Pinot Noir grape variety, this rosé has great strawberry notes.
Low-alcohol wines
Low-alcohol wines are gaining popularity as consumers become more concerned about the health effects of alcohol consumption. We recently tasted Giesen wines from New Zealand and even if we don’t like them, they appeal to consumers who need to keep drinking wine, but in moderation.
The alcohol is reduced to 6% with classic rotating cone technology.
The 2022 Giesen Pure Light Sauvignon Blanc ($15) has some of the alcohol and 45% fewer calories — just 62 calories per five-ounce serving. It has pronounced notes of tropical fruits.
Giesen also makes a $17 classic sauvignon blanc with 12 proof (even less than the maximum for sauvignon blancs) and a $16 non-alcoholic version.
Wine Selections
MacRostie Nightwing Vineyard Chardonnay 2022 ($58). This delicious and complex Chardonnay from Petaluma Gap is her third vintage and comes from a region that appeals to winemaker Heidi Bridenhagen. It has a lot of spirit and is another of the many Chardonnays that we have tasted this year. Notes of stone fruit and citrus with a hint of pine.
Danaus Catalunya 2022 Red Wine ($13). We enjoyed this tasty Tempranillo, Garnacha and Cabernet Sauvignon. Simple and sweet on the palate with notes of ripe cherry and plum. Quite a deal.
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