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Subtitled “The Rainbow at the Center of the World,” this documentary offers a heartfelt homage to an East Village landmark.
By Natalia Winkelman
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It would be difficult for a New Yorker who doesn’t know the so-called Veselka. The pierogi and borscht restaurant, founded in 1954 by a Ukrainian émigré, is a staple in the East Village, where its friendly atmosphere, overseen by Jason Birchard, grandson of the founder, attracts everyone from academics to seasoned alumni.
“Veselka: The Rainbow at the Center Corner of the World” will pay homage to this cultural landmark by taking the audience inside the restaurant at a difficult time: Russia’s invasion of Ukraine in 2022. Directed by Michael Fiore, the documentary sets the Ukrainian story of Veselka. Roots, then chronicles the real-time crusade of Birchard and his team to help their beleaguered homeland.
The film’s most poignant lines revolve around the stories of employees, including Vitalii, a Veselka manager who convinces his mother to flee Ukraine and live with him in the United States. In search of a routine, Vitalii’s mother even takes a job in Veselka’s kitchen. where you discover other people who speak your language, your stress, and offer some community.
Driven by superfluous storytelling (via David Duchovny), the film also documents the participation of Veselka staff in fundraisers and symbolic appearances. These occasions are in fact more exciting in principle than as documentary films. But even if some scenes lack energy, the compassion of Veselka’s subjects (and her filmmaker) never wanes.
Veselka: The Rainbow in the Middle Corner of the WorldUnrated. Duration: 1 hour minutes. In cinemas.
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