As a teenager, the new commission of the Parisian designer Pierre Kaczmarek, Georges Wendell, is animated through the characters of his hometown.
High, £105; trousers, £415, via Georges Wendell. Fashion: Ben Schofield
At 23, Pierre Kaczmarek doesn’t look like most of his generation. To begin with, he already took a business that started by himself to worldwide recognition, and then closed it in its heyday when he learned that it did not suit his artistic career. trajectory. He also considers himself an old soul, who values sharing lunches and stories with the elders of Paris’ fashion district than strengthening his social media presence. it’s vital to live in our world, so it’s vital to be social, but personally, I’m more in the moment,” says Kaczmarek, whose new assignment reinvigorates Georges Wendell’s old label.
It’s no wonder Kaczmarek has an experienced view of life: he started his career at just 15 and at 19 he was nominated for an ANDAM award for his first line, Afterschoolpaintings, which began with his frifinish Elena Mottola. This approval allowed Afterschoolpaintings to be stored in more than 80 stores and in paintings with global public relations firm KCD. I’m very proud of that. But it’s crazy how I was able to handle it. I didn’t think about it. I didn’t have a plan. And that’s why in the end it was confusing to continue.
Kaczmarek took the opportunity to re-evaluate. ” I thought, that’s good, but that’s not what we should do. [After school work is] modern, artistic, and crazy. My friends can’t use that, they do general studies, They will be doctors and lawyers. I sought to dress my friends.
Fast forward and now Kaczmarek is a few days away from presenting his Georges Wendell P/E 2023 collection in Paris. It will be a small presentation at the Lapérouse restaurant, on a stage similar to the Chez L’Ami Louis, where he showed his A / W Collection 2022. “After fashion, food is my favorite thing,” she says. This way of appearing outside of your garments, intimate and personal, rather than a presentation on a catwalk, is intentional. “You have the ability to interact with other people and I get feedback. That’s why I do fashion, to meet other people from all over the world. The décor is also a post-Covid recalibration: “I’m still young and want to connect. I’m better when communicating with other people.
He chose to revitalize the existing, relatively unknown logo, rather than start over under his own call because he prefers anonymity. “I bought the logo for a symbolic euro,” he explains. I didn’t need to put my call on the label, because I’m not that self-centered and I think I have nothing to personally give a contribution to fashion. I’m not Iris Van Herpen, I don’t bring anything incredible. like a three-dimensional dress.
Kaczmarek lives in the 10th arrondissement, a stone’s throw from the Canal Saint Martin, and has a workplace in the Marais. It says workplace, rather than studio, because you probably wouldn’t find a sewing device there. “Drawing is rarely my thing. ” I prefer to write. I was doing literature first, I was about to go to school to study politics and I chose to do fashion,” she explains. This resolution provoked a quarrel with his mother, with whom he has now reconciled; she had worked in the advertising component of the company for Brunello Cucinelli and Saint Laurent, before opening a shop on rue Saint-Honoré (she is now retired and lives in Toulouse).
Her men’s garments are sordid and sensual after-hours, with an antique twist, but composed for a cast of archetypal Parisian characters. A suit with thick threads, a knitted cardigan with a cropped harlequin trend, a nod to the theater, and prints in designs he created by capturing YouTube videos, adding pasted images and wine glasses in silk pajamas. Branding is subtly intertwined (his father worked in advertising); pants and shirts are cut with a zigzag “W” shaped hem, some floral prints reveal their monogram.
Kaczmarek also created a silhouette index that he memorized and named, such as “SH07” for a blouse style, which can be made into a variety of fabrics and colors. This pragmatic technique not only makes it less difficult to paint with suppliers in Portugal and Italy, but it is also helping to run a successful business, something Kaczmarek learned firsthand with his first company. “Since I am a young creator, I have to be rational and not spend too much. “about waste, and will introduce in small drops the site of Georges Wendell, pieces such as bars, lace or swimsuits that can update and satiate the appetite for novelty.
Despite its methodical technique, the collection maintains a sense of spontaneity, in part because Kaczmarek begins each collection with a verbal exchange with an older friend or friend of his father, from which he builds a character for the season. “I guess this guy was what I would do in my spare time, maybe I’ll go to the party or a component. It starts as a narrative. Character construction is an important component of Kaczmarek’s technique: he uses the email nickname “Georges” instead of his own call in his email. Paris is also a wonderful source of inspiration. “I know this town. Sometimes it’s boring for me, because I was born and raised here. And it’s not a very big town either. It’s too much on me, luckily or unfortunately. So I have to use this wisdom for my brand. I think all Parisians have a Georges Wendell component in them. ” §
An edition of this article appears in the September 2022 issue of Wallpaper*, which will be available in print, in the Wallpaper* app on Apple iOS, and for Apple News subscribers. Subscribe to Wallpaper* today!
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