The COVID-19 pandemic threatens to destroy America’s love story with original Italian food.
Current restrictions have made it virtually impossible to savor the flavors of Italian dishes and wines at their source. Many Italian restaurants in the United States, whether upscale and casual, that typically serve those pieces have either closed or been forced to restrict seating.
Even the house chefs have had trouble getting coveted ingredients. In April, reports showed a shortage of pasta driven by increased demand as consumers increase their pantries a pandemic.
The Italy-West America Chamber of Commerce (IACCW) is a consortium of Americans and corporations whose purpose is to publicize the bilateral industry between Italy and the United States, adding food and wine The non-profit organization, which is part of a network of 81 chambers operating in 55 countries, sponsors the creation of networks and schooling opportunities for industry professionals and the general public.
Forbes. com spoke to Genny Nevoso, Executive Director of IACCW, to learn how the pandemic is affecting Italy’s food and wine industry and its domino effect on American consumers.
How has Italy gained as the epicentre of gastronomic tourism?
Genny Nevoso: I was lucky to be born in Italy. Although it is a tiny country, Italy is a small geographical miracle, the only peninsula in the world that extends from north to south in the best latitude and surrounded by seas, which contribute to microclimates and biodiversity.
Gastronomic tourism has become popular because the country’s unique culinary and cultural history is woven into one, an enduring charm for visitors. The diversity of geographic regions gives other food products and recipes in fertile lands that grow more than a thousand other types of grapes , each with their own personality and stories to tell.
When you travel to Italy to explore an express region, you can expect to see those foods being harvested and the products made. They can better perceive the land, soil and animals and witness thousands of years of protocol, history and traditions.
For example, Calabria’s best-known wine is a DOC wine called Cir, which was once presented as a toast to the gods through the Olympic champions of ancient Greece. It’s still produced today, and you can attach to that kind of story in every original bottle you find. Calabria, as well as other southern regions such as Puglia, Sardinia and Sicily have increasingly popular destinations for food and wine lovers.
With limited travel, how can tourists bring food to a small house in Italy for the pandemic?
GN: Although Americans cannot travel to Italy at the moment, the distance occasionally makes the center more loving. They can enjoy the flavors of original Italian products at home, which can be obtained from many specialty food vendors and restaurants closer to home.
Each of them carries with them some land, landmarks and culture. Think of the balsamic vinegar of Modena, the Mozzarella di Bufala of Campania and the San Marzano tomatoes, which tell the story of a destination and a total landscape.
How has the burden of recently imposed US price lists affected imports and costs of Italian food?
GN: The fees imposed through the US administration last fall hit a lot of beloved Italians with an additional 25% that will go into effect in October 2019 and are still in effect. They have already touched on Italian specialties like Parmigiano Reggiano AOP, Grana Padano AOP, Gorgonzola AOP, Asiago AOP, Fontina AOP and Provolone Valpadana AOP but also salami, mortadella, crustaceans, citrus fruits, crustaceans, juices and liqueurs.
Fortunately, Italy was largely saved thanks to the most recent price list circular announced in August 2020): no more tasks will be implemented on its pasta, wine and olive oils.
Many members of our Chamber, whether they are restaurateurs and importers, have suggested to the management that it eliminate the tariffs, adding that these products are irreplaceable through domestic products. And that’s the truth. To offer authentic, gourmet or informal Italian cuisine, you need express products, especially what we call AOP (Protected Designation of Origin) for food and DOC / DOCG for wines.
Furthermore, the effect on those price lists makes it more unlikely that small brands will make a living. We lack qualified brands in Italy because the younger generation is moving away from the secular circle of family businesses due to those challenges, the lack of appeal for the product and the lack of general interest. Those who inherit businesses have no incentive to sue them, creating a serious shortage.
For example, Modena’s maximum production and estimated maximum balsamic vinegar takes 25 years to age. Families produce a barrel as soon as they have a baby because their long term and wealth count on it. We’ll see the regional vinegar disappear and just if we don’t update now. We cannot allow counterfeit or imitation products to continue to be marketed to update genuine products, PDO and DOC in this way. The more we can demand, the more price the new generation will see in the business and will be encouraged to modernize your family’s brands. Otherwise, these products will be on the brink of extinction, and soon.
What has been the effect of pandemic-related food closures, reduced seats and drastic declines in tourism on the availability of Italian food in the United States?
GN: Restaurants play a leading role in the loading and service of Italian food and beverages, as well as in consumer education. With multiple threats to the industry, such as higher rates, higher shipping costs, an increasing number of food place closures, and pandemic rules restricting the ability of places to eat, it’s more confusing to notice the authenticity of Italian cuisine.
Imitation products, what we call “Italian sound” products, are commonplace. The widespread imitation of Italian products is incredibly severe: Italian-sounding products represent between € 100 billion and € 42 billion, which is the price of original Italian food. production.
Over the past decade, the number of imitation products has increased by 70% and Italian manufacturers are incredibly concerned. Italy has the largest number of products (794) through EU food labels, which promises its authenticity. Labeling anything “Italian” has become synonymous with quality, which makes it more successful for manufacturers with “Italian appearance” to earn cash with the strength of the “Made in Italy” label.
Many American chefs put genuine Italian ingredients into their dishes, proud of the various ingredients they seek out and buy, and then quite frankly, there are others in the industry who just don’t understand, they are caught up in messes in charge that lead them to serve non-original versions. they describe as Italian and give them a platform. This has the effect of converting consumer reports with original Italian dishes.
By the way, how are you doing in Italy? Will they be there when we return?
GN: A recent decree from the Italian government calls for a wide variety of urgent measures to revive the country’s economy. Approved in August 2020, it provides several million euros of direct aid to revive the cafeteria business. Specifically, restaurants and hotels that recorded a 25% drop in their source of income between March and June 2020 (compared to the same time last year) are entitled to 2,500 euros to purchase ingredients (food products and wineries). ) that must be made in Italy. This initiative aims to help places to eat and food and wine producers to recover.
How can Americans identify and locate original Italian products to take to their kitchens now?
GN: Italy is the country with the highest number of DOP (Protected Designation of Origin) and PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) products identified throughout the European Union, with a total of 573, totaling 167 food products and 406 wines. identified through the circular symbol red and yellow, in the sun.
Our IGP has lately totaled 249 (131 foods and 118 wines). They can be identified by the blue and yellow symbol.
The EU GI formula is helping local manufacturers and economies, prioritizing coverage of the environment, thus safeguarding the eco-formulas and biodiversity of this express land, and supporting social integration within the community. a superior point of traceability and quality standards.
Through the crusade of true Italian flavor, funded through italy’s Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation and coordinated through Assocamerestero, IACCW has produced educational occasions and activities aimed at helping the media, buyers and consumers to original Italian food and beverage products.
Some tips: look for AOP or IGP symbols; make sure the packaging indicates that it is an “Italian product”. Don’t be fooled by the names of the Italian sounding logos and the symbols of the Italian flag on the packaging.
Note: This verbal exchange has been edited and condensed for clarity.
I’ve written a lot of articles about fitness and lifestyles for fashion magazines, industry publications and leading newspapers. My purpose is the luxury traveler of more than 50 years and