It was surrounded by hundreds, perhaps thousands of pieces of pre-Columbian gold artifacts. Bright shapes depicting jaguars, snakes, condors and all sorts of anthropomorphic figures stared at me, side by side on a massive circular screen. This created a similar effect to being in appearance a gigantic golden temple. This is what El Dorado looked like in my imagination, echoing the fantasies of European visitors of all eras, who once flocked to the Americas in search of a mythical city of gold.
However, it’s 2022 and I don’t get lost in a remote jungle, but I admire one of the central rooms of the Gold Museum in Bogotá, Colombia’s famous gold museum. It houses an impressive collection of more than 60,000 pieces, making it the most important cultural museum in Los Angeles. Establishment committed to the metallurgy of gold in the world. Touring his exhibitions with María de los Ángeles Paz, curator of the museum, I evoked my visions of resplendent cities.
“There’s a strong connection between the museum and the legend of El Dorado, but that’s not what you think,” he said. “There are many real-world links to legend in the Americas, but the traditionally more accurate origin story comes from the broader region of Bogotá and its indigenous people, the Muisca. “
The Muisca inhabited the Altiplano Cundiboyacense around 1000 BC. C. , however, the apogee of its cultural power came until after the seventh century AD. Unfortunately, the Spanish conquest of the region abruptly put an end to its complex civilization.
“The Muisca did not build monumental structures like their most prominent American counterparts, the Incas, the Aztecs and the Mayans, but they left incredible artifacts that tell many stories,” Maria smiles, pointing to a small golden creation. “It is here, before your eyes, that lies the origin of the legend of El Dorado. “
The object, known as the Muisca raft, was surrounded by an impressive installation that gave the impression that it floated in the air. Maria explained how she represented the rite that animated the legend of El Dorado, better known as “The Golden King” (or “The Golden King”). As I tried to make sense of the human figures on the little raft, he told me his curious story.
“Every time a new Muisca chief, or Zipa, took office, his rite of investiture included a rite of initiation in the Laguna de Guatavita. The Zipa was covered in gold dust and came out on a raft like this,” he paused, pointing to the central figure rising from the back of the raft. “He accompanied through loads of gold objects that would be thrown into the sacred waters as offerings to the gods, before Zipa himself intervened. “
To underscore her point, Maria pointed to a photograph of the Laguna de Guatavita, the most sacred of the lakes of Muisca and where historically the ritual of the “golden Indian” was performed. To say that this is what gave rise to the legend of El Dorado, a tale that brought thousands of Europeans to those lands, causing countless deaths in pursuit of their mythical riches.
An hour and a half later, after leaving the busy streets of Bogotá behind, I found myself in front of Laguna de Guatavita Park with a lot of locals. We were all waiting to sign up for a three-hour guided tour that ended with a stop at the watchtowers (viewpoints) overlooking the mythical lake, which would soon inform us that it was a great abyss.
Before the hike I met Eduardo Acosta, director of the park, who explained to me that mandatory guided tours were a way to restrict the environmental impact of the thousands of visitors to the lake and the park, as well as to make it more educational.
“At 3,000 m, the climb to get there is not the easiest,” he warned me as we headed towards the first watchtower. That didn’t stop the conquistadors. The list of other people who tried to plunder the riches of the lake is too long to mention, but the Spanish were the most persistent, and even changed the landscape in the process. Edward pointed to a man-made area along the crater-shaped perimeter. . This had been opened long ago in a failed attempt to drain the lake.
“It is to know precisely how much gold or how many valuable objects were discovered in the water, but we do know that thousands of coins have been recovered over more than five centuries,” Eduardo said. As we admired the majestic view of the lake, it took on a myriad of green shades of sunshine as the sun shone through the clouds.
Back in Bogotá, I met Angelina Guerrero, an independent curator, museologist and member of a generation of young Bogotans leading a cultural renaissance in Colombia’s sprawling capital. We make our excursion in the historic center of the city, the district of Candelos angelesria, which carries its call from the church of the colonial era Nuestra Señora de los Ángeles Candelos angelesria.
We made the Chorro de Quevedo (Fuente de Quevedo) our first stop. It is here that Gonzalo Jiménez de Quesada, a Spanish conquistador, is said to have established Bogotá in 1538, a construction of wonderful ceremonial importance for the Muisca Zipa.
“The Spanish came to this region in search of gold from El Dorado. They discovered, and decimated, a thriving local population of over half a million people,” Angelina explained as we explored, traversing the layers of history that explained the area. .
Candelaria is another of the historic neighborhoods I have visited in other cities in Latin America. All of the neighborhood’s renovation and beautification over the past two decades has revitalized its streets while introducing trendy amenities like plumbing and electricity. I discovered it and it is exceptionally well maintained. But, more importantly, it didn’t seem like a position committed to tourism. As we walked, I didn’t see any souvenir shops, ice cream parlors or hotels. Instead, I discovered a colorful and active urban center populated at most commonly by young people.
“There are so many universities founded in the area, and the costs are still for young scholars to live here,” Angelina said. “We haven’t noticed too many Airbnbs showing up yet. “
Cobbled streets and brightly colored houses revealed a wide combination of architectural styles. Spanish colonial designs dominated, but there were also notable examples of Baroque and Art Deco. As we approached Bogota’s bustling Plaza de Bolivar, the classic Plaza Mayor, we passed some of the city’s most iconic landmarks. important landmarks, adding the Teatro Colón and the Casa de Nariño, the presidential palace. In between, we saw many examples of street art, framed by piles of skaters navigating the squares and streets of the city.
“The younger generation is reclaiming Bogotá. This is now our artistic playground!Angelina smiled as the urban bustle followed us to the Plaza de Bolívar itself.
The central square is named after the national (and Latin American) hero Simón Bolívar, whose nineteenth-century statue stands in the center. Plaza de Bolivar has served as the city’s public market for centuries, Angelina explained as we walked toward the towering metropolitan cathedral that dominated the stage. Before the arrival of the Spaniards, this domain also had special importance for the Muisca people, who had an astronomy complex: the location of the square is perfectly aligned to practice the solstices and equinoxes between the surrounding hills of Monserrate and Guadalupe.
Angelina wants me to notice the many cultural establishments that have highlighted Bogota’s prestige as a rising star on the world art scene. The Gold Museum is now just one of many highlights, and I was temporarily directed to a monumental complex that houses Central Bank art. collection, being the star amulet the works of the Colombian artist of universal renown, Fernando Botero.
Immediately recognizable by his burly and comic characters, Botero’s unique artistic taste is explored through a series of masterpieces he donated to the state in 2000. The museum’s permanent collection helped decipher some of the allegories discovered in his creations by juxtaposing his work. of the artists who encouraged him. The Botero Museum’s remarkable foreign collection includes works by Picasso, Dalí, Monet and Matisse, among others.
We finish our cultural excursion with a stop at the newly renovated National Museum of Colombia, located outdoors in the historic center in an artfully remodeled criminal building.
“The museum made headlines in world art for its cutting-edge technique to exhibit its permanent collection,” Angelina said at the beginning of our visit. Instead of showing their works in chronological order, the galleries separated into themes such as gold, power, family, and struggle. The resulting combination, ranging from pre-Columbian to republican and new works, is refreshing to help visitors focus on understanding the commonalities and disconnects among Colombians.
Venturing out of the historic center, I was given a fashionable Bowere concept. A city of more than 11 million inhabitants, the town is on an Andean highlands surrounded by evergreen mountains. Despite its giant size, there is a homogeneity in the urban. Fabric here, in the form of the red brick buildings that dominate the cityscape. The Bowere giveános have a pioneering architect, Rogelio Salmona, to thank for this.
“Rogelio was encouraged through the Islamic masonry of Spain and North Africa and designed vital public and residential buildings, a reasonable product that historically functioned as a local replacement for masonry,” Angelina explained, adding that “the use of brick is also useful for insulating buildings. of constant humidity.
I can see your point of view. Despite its proximity to the equator, the city’s maximum altitude (2,600 m above sea level) has earned it a specific climate that could be described as a perennial spring, with abundant rainfall and mild temperatures all year round.
As we continued our journey, Angelina began to deal with the country’s complicated recent past, namely the violent 80s and 90s. Today, following the 2016 peace deal between the Colombian government and the country’s largest group, the FARC, things are very different here. However, that leaves a lot to think about.
We stopped in front of a new installation by artist Doris Salcedo that paid tribute to those who lost their lives during five decades of internal conflict in Colombia. She had used the ruins of a seventeenth-century area as a level for an “anti-monument” made from weapons delivered through 13,000 insurgents. Titled “Fragments,” the paintings focus on a gray floor constructed of molten weapons, forming a solemn and undeniable commemoration of peace. The strange area developed metaphorically as a position where weapons are despised rather than feared for their power.
“This is a position for all of us, previous and future generations, to reflect on our history and its not-so-distant past,” Angelina solemnly commented, before adding a note of optimism. “The city has repositioned itself dramatically over the past two decades, a genuine transformation since I was a kid and developed here. Not only is it safer and cleaner, but it is also undergoing complete regeneration in terms of nightlife and gastronomy.
She continued to be excited as we headed to the LEO restaurant. Recently named one of the 50 most productive restaurants on the planet through The World’s 50 Best, LEO is part of a significant list of local institutions making global headlines. The mother-daughter duo Leo and Laura Espinosa has developed an exclusive culinary philosophy “Ciclo-biome”, which uses gastronomy as a tool for social and economic progress in indigenous and Afro-Colombian communities. We dined on Amazonian ants and trout infused with coca leaf accompanied by culmination and plants. There were flavors so ambitious and that the more familiar feel of Colombian coffee served at the end was almost relaxing.
As my stay in Bogotá drew to a close, I couldn’t help but suppress an ironic laugh. On the way to the airport, I saw signs on the road that read “El Dorado” that were accompanied by an airplane icon. But before I said goodbye, Angelina couldn’t wait for me to see one last piece of Colombian art: a huge golden fabric hanging over the recording area. It is the creation of Olga de Amaral, another of Colombia’s prolific foreign artists. artists, and very fond of gold leaf. ” After all, it wouldn’t be El Dorado without gold!”Angelina smiled as she gave him a golden farewell.
Get there
Avianca, Colombia’s national airline, flies to Bogotá non-stop from London (10 hours), with fares starting at around £600. Bogotá’s El Dorado International is a regional hub served by many European and American airlines.
Move
Bogotá’s traffic is as mythical as El Dorado, but it has taken a step forward since the launch of dedicated bus lanes and eco-friendly buses. Taxi apps are available, but be careful at night.
Where to stay
Many hotels of local and foreign brands are located in the city, however, the two undisputed leaders in hospitality are operated through the Four Seasons hotel group.
Four Seasons Casa Medina is housed in a 1946 indexed building designed with Spanish colonial taste by Colombian artist and architect Santiago Medina Mejía. Rooms feature hand-carved wooden furniture and a fireplace. The hotel is part of the “Zona Gourmet” domain of eating places and is only a 15-minute drive from Candelaria.
The Four Seasons Hotel Bogotá is an active sister to Casa Medina and is located to highlight Zona T, Bogota’s colorful district for dining and grocery shopping. It’s also a smart base for the city’s nightlife and the cafes of the bohemian Chapinero district.
The trip
The writer traveled to Bogotá independently, with the help on the ground of ProColombia and Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts Bogotá. Galavanta has provided guides and itineraries and offers customized tours of Colombia. For more information on Colombia, stop by colombia. travel/es