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Michal Herzog, Israel’s first lady, among the dignitaries who attended the personal opening of “Alber Elbaz: The Dream Factory” at the Holon Design Museum on Monday night.
What is billed as the most comprehensive exhibition to date on the defeated Israeli designer, and one of the most complex and expensive ever held at the 12-year-old institution, opens to the public on Thursday and will be open until Feb. 25.
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He will take over the “Love Brings Love” show of 46 tribute looks through designers, made following Elbaz’s death from COVID-19 in April 2021 and having been the subject of a committed exhibition earlier this year at the Palais Galliera in Paris. designers included Dior, Gucci, Balenciaga, Louis Vuitton, Balmain and Versace.
The Holon Design Museum has envisioned a new multimedia format for those dresses, but the scope of the overall exhibition is much broader: it mixes sketches, archival documents, non-public objects, video clips and unpublished images to immerse yourself in Elbaz’s life story. , tracing his birthplace in Morocco and his formative year home in Holon to the most sensitive of the Parisian fashion firmament.
“This is a birthday party of Alber’s life and accomplishments, as well as his character as a user,” curator Ya’ara Keydar said in a Zoom interview. “You delight in this user and not just with his creations. “
More than a hundred sets are displayed among rolls of colored cloth, ribbon oars, heart-shaped confetti, antique mirrors, and sets of racing flag images with flashes.
Most of Elbaz’s creations come from AZ Factory, the new fashion logo he created in a joint venture with Compagnie Financière Richemont, while the scope of his fashion career is shown in photos. Elbaz worked on geoffrey Beene’s scenes in New York, then worked for Guy Laroche, Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, Krizia Top and Lanvin.
Organizers were careful not to call the exhibition a retrospective, quoting a quote from Elbaz: “The only thing I don’t do is summarize. I don’t look back.
Still, the museum’s 180-foot “perimeter hallway” designed by Ron Arad tells the story of his life through the major landmarks and other people in his life through some three hundred photographs, fashion illustrations, quotes and private accessories, adding his signature. bow tie, his large Maison Bonnet glasses and his favorite kit.
Fans in the crowd will most likely come in Lanvin’s gold draped dress that Meryl Streep wore in 2012 to win the Best Actress Oscar for “The Iron Lady” and a white Lanvin “peace dress” adorned with feathered wings.
Visitors can also park at a table for dinner and watch videos of the many lectures Elbaz gave around the world to fashion scholars during his four-year break between Lanvin and AZ Factory. The segment is called “Food for Thought” and the kinds of life and its dry and self-critical humor is projected onto the plates.
Traveling projectors, flashing lights, rotating carousels and catchy music give the performances the cheerful, carnivalesque atmosphere that Elbaz evoked on his fashion monitors for Lanvin, where his acclaimed 14 years cemented his fashion legacy.
Similarly, models in chairs, sunbathe on the floor reading magazines or freeze in the middle of a dance move, echoing the whimsical Elbaz windows of yesteryear.
“Visitors say they feel they met Alber in person,” Keydar said. “Alber was not afraid to dream and he shows it from the age of 6, when he drew fashion looks.
He noted that Elbaz “shared not only the most important moments of his life, but also the tragedies and failures,” alluding to his departure from YSL through Tom Ford in 2000 and his departure from Lanvin in 2015. You can triumph over crises and even be tougher than you were before.
The exhibition is divided into “different stages of his life”, narratives built around key places such as New York, Paris, Holon and Tangier. For example, it was in New York where Elbaz married his love of sewing with the ease of American sport. wear – a mixture that would leak your career.
His Parisian years are represented through a multitude of small black dresses and references to the tuxedo.
“It left us with so many vital ideas about the long term of fashion,” Keydar said, referring to his fascination with wise fabrics, durability, diversity of lengths and other “solutions” at AZ Factory. “And he was an incredible storyteller. “
Keydar, a historian and curator of fashion, graduated in fashion design from Shenkar College in Remat Gan, Israel, where he also studied Elbaz.
Among the AZ Factory representatives attending the opening festivities were Alex Koo, Partner at Elbaz, and Norman René Devera, Design Director at AZ Factory.
Design Museum Holon is the design museum in Israel, and a 2021 summer fashion exhibit titled “The Ball,” dedicated to evening and wedding dresses and curated through Keydar, attracted more than 150,000 visitors.
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